Bodegas Madai was founded by brothers Daniel and Gonzalo Amigo, who returned to their roots in north-west Spain to revive their grandparents’ vineyards in Bierzo. Situated at the northern edge of the appellation, Madai’s old plots are tucked into steep, south-facing slopes that benefit from a unique mix of continental and Atlantic climates. With a focus on authenticity and minimal intervention, the brothers work primarily with native Godello and Mencía vines, some over a century old, across just four hectares of gnarled, low-yielding bush vines.

The vineyards are farmed with minimal intervention — no fertilisers are used, and the old vines have reached a natural equilibrium with their environment. This low-impact viticulture is supported by the rugged terrain and the poor, well-drained soils of granite and slate, which naturally restrict yields and encourage vine resilience. As a result, the wines are expressive, site-specific, and made with deep respect for the land.

This wine is made entirely from Godello, sourced from 80+ year-old bush-trained vines. After fermentation, it was aged for nine months on fine lees, which adds texture and complexity while retaining the variety’s natural freshness. No oak is used, allowing the character of the old vines and extended lees contact to shine through in the finished wine.

Aromas of citrus rind, green pineapple and a gentle toastiness introduce a rich and textured palate. There’s real power here for just 13% alcohol — the weight and concentration of the fruit is impressive, balanced by fresh acidity and a lightly bitter twist on the finish that adds grip and encourages another sip.

This is a brilliant partner for fragrant Asian-style chicken or fish dishes, but also works well with grilled vegetables and soft cheeses. Made with minimal intervention and no additives beyond sulphites, it’s a beautifully crafted wine from a sustainably farmed site, offering complexity, character and finesse.